Small engines typically have to reach at least 400 rpm before they’ll fire up. But traditional motor oil thickens when cold, making it much harder to reach that 400-rpm threshold. Synthetic oil allows the engine to spin faster when you yank the cord, so it starts with fewer pulls. So when you change the oil in your snowblower next, switch to synthetic.
Don’t Forget Pre-Season Maintenance
Get your snow blower ready for action by installing a new spark plug, changing the oil and checking the condition of the belts. Replace the belts if you see cracks, fraying or glazing or notice that chunks are missing. Replacing the spark plug? Consider an iridium spark plug.
Next, sand any rusted areas and repaint. Once the paint cures, apply a high-quality polymeric car wax to all painted surfaces. The wax will shed the snow and water and protect the paint. And, wax the inside of the chute to help prevent clogs.
Then consult your owner’s manual to find the lubrication points and the recommended lube. If the type of lube isn’t listed, here’s some general guidance: Use motor oil on metal linkage joints, gears and cables, but dry PTFE lube on plastic parts (knobs, gears and chute). Spray the auger, second-stage impeller and chute with silicone spray to prevent snow from sticking.
Buy Parts Before You Need Them
Belts and shear pins always break on a Sunday night in the middle of a blizzard. So buy replacement parts at the start of the season when everyone has them in stock. If you break a shear pin and try to improvise using the wrong shear pin, or worse yet, an ordinary bolt, you risk major damage that can easily cost you $200. You’ll need to change the belt in your snowblower from time to time too, so grab set of belts and a few extra shear pins.
Also make sure you have the right size of wrenches and sockets and the correct size pin punch to drive out the broken pin. Then assemble a parts and tool kit.
